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Man
from Aezkoa |
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| Illustration:
Artzai |
| Wore woven wool. Used black
trousers tied beneath the knee
with cord, finished off with black
tassels. The waistcoat and jacket
were also black with button and
braid. Blue woollen sash, black
cotton or woollen tights and wide,
black, calfskin shoes. On their
heads, a round, black, felt hat.
In the winter, a black smock over
the suit down to the knee. The
younger people wore similar dress,
replacing the black of many items
(jacket, sash, hat, etc.) for
livelier colours. |
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| The men from Salazar and Roncal
dressed in a similar fashion with
small variations. |
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Woman
from Salazar |
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| Illustration:
Artzai |
Wore two black, pleated, ankle-length
skirts tied to one side. Between
the two and hanging from the waist,
a cloth pouch called a “portaka”.
The full-body length, linen blouse
with heavily-gathered sleeves
served as petticoat. Closed, black,
calfskin shoes and black, linen
tights. Two long, knee-length
plaits intertwined or finished
off with black, satin or silk
ribbons. Over the blouse, a tight,
black doublet with fine lace on
the sleeves. Around the neck,
chokers or necklaces in several
loops. On many occasions, these
were of gold or silver and spoke
of the family’s financial
status. Black mantillas were worn
in church. Younger women wore
similar dress, but with more colour
on embroidery and ribbons.
The more-than-curious “unaia”
is worthy of mention. This article
was worn on rainy days, wrapping
it up in the pleated skirts and
lifting the upper skirt or "kota"
and placing it on the head. |
| The women from Aezkoa and Roncal
wore similar dress, with obvious
differences in terms of decoration,
more sombre the former and livelier
the latter. |
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Roncal
alderman |
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| Illustration:
Artzai |
Wears the same dress as married
men, but with silver, shoe buckles.
Over the suit, a black, woollen,
wide-bottomed, knee-length cape.
Open on both sides, the sleeves
are loose and there is a long,
narrow hood at the back, bordered
in bright red. On the cape, a
white, linen ruff or dickey, tied
at the front with a white lace.
The President of the Valley Council
was considered by right a captain
of war and so he wore a red band
across his chest and carried a
staff, longer than the modern-day
rod, with a lance head.
The suits of the aldermen or mayors
of these three Pyrenean valleys
are rather similar with small
differences between them. Nowadays,
the mayors of the valleys wear
this dress at different ceremonies
and celebrations. |
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